One of the more enjoyable river rafting outings in India is the three to four-day-long ‘expedition-style’ ride down the Bhagirathi (Bhagi for short), considered the source stream of the Ganga. Trickling out of ice-melt from the Gangotri glacier, deep in the Garhwal Himalayas, the Bhagi has hogged prime press in recent years for bearing the cross of the controversial Tehri dam on its chilled flow. Just below this mammoth structure, where the river is allowed to emerge as a resurgent force, is the put-in for the rafting run. Incidentally, the next couple of seasons, before the dam becomes fully functional and reins in the river, are in all likelihood the last chance to experience the Bhagi river adventure.

Essentially, there are two aspects to the Bhagi trip. First, of course, is the white water. Packing about 60-70 rapid-ridden flurries over as many kilometres — there are a total of over 100 rapids on the entire 140-km expedition down to Rishikesh — the Bhagi is rated a Class III+ (exciting but not difficult) river. The paddle down could be viewed in two sections. The upper half is the meander down the actual Bhagi valley to the confluence with the Alaknanda at Devprayag, where from the combine progresses as the Ganga. Volumetrically, the Bhagi is obviously smaller than the Ganga and this reflects on the nature of white water. Though there are some fairly long flat phases, rapids are more numerous and follow generally quicker than post-Devprayag. Rocky bits — known as boulder gardens in rafting parlance — are frequent, creating obstructive features called pourovers, which need to be carefully watched for. Size wise, the waves are not very large, getting bigger as the river swells with the effluence of feeder streams. Elephant Rock rapid is the first real biggie, marking the halfway point of the valley. The Chute, a narrow funnel of raging white torrent, barely allowing a 16-foot raft to squeeze in and be spat out, is the most exciting. The semi-waterfall is invariably given a good look over from the bank before it is tackled. Towards the end, the Confluence rapids are an enjoyable series of large crests and troughs that signal upcoming big water.

Devprayag down, the flow streamlines into a fleshy riverway of long flats, interspersed with some big breakers. Kaudiyala brings up Daniel’s Dip, a roaring white water seesaw that also flags off the main commercial rafting section of the Ganga. Hereon, till Rishikesh, familiar names like The Wall, Roller Coaster, Three Blind Mice and Golf Course — almost legendary by now with rafting freaks — buck your boat with whopping irregularity.

It’s one thing to gaze at a river valley from a high vantage and another to experience it from the bottom up. That is the second aspect of the Bhagi water slalom, and one as interesting as the first. Vignettes of a timeless, ‘backwater’ India, that would not be available to a conventional traveler, is offered up close. Floating down a silent gorge, where the voice echoes as if in an empty auditorium, a bedraggled family may be spied brewing local liquor from river water in a homemade distiller, sure of being hidden from prying eyes. On a pebbly edge, fisherfolk check their spider web-like nets laid horizontally across the river; crawling out of your tent on a chilly morning, you’ll rub your eyes more in disbelief than sleep as a villager clad in a loin cloth nonchalantly straddles a jerrycan for buoyancy and sets off across the strong ice-cold current to inspect the next set of nets.

Breakfast that day would be a bagfull of fresh catch, sold for a few rupees. An isolated beach reveals even a human skeleton — the mournful mortal remains of an unfortunate soul who, probably, lost his footing high up on a steep path, or was cremated on a ghat. At the tiny hamlet of Naggar, a Shiva temple sits on a bend, flaunting a big rock in the center as the deity symbolized. Chances are that by the time the priest has spruced himself in spiffy saffrons and hurried down to greet the unlikely visitors, you’ve clanged the bells, helped yourself to a smear of vermilion and partaken of The Destroyer’s blessings for safe passage ahead.

The natural scenery, short of spectacular, is undoubtedly picturesque. Almost all the way, the mountainsides are well forested and sparsely settled. Banyan trees cling tenaciously on sheer gorges with octopus-like roots. Virtually inaccessible rock faces ooze with a natural substance that, if gotten to, is scraped off and eaten as shilajit, a precious and reputedly potent tonic. At the bottom-end of the granite, marks resembling something between prehistoric drawings and knots-and-crosses turn out to be gouges made by catfish whilst feeding on mineral-rich algae. Sandy white coves, basking shags and cormorants, flitting redstarts and the occasional barking deer add to the panorama. And below Devprayag, the long calm stretches are ideal for frolic — pushing people into the drink or jumping off voluntarily for that essential ritual dip in the holy river.

NOTEBOOK: Tehri, the start point of the self-sustained Bhagirathi expedition, is an eight to nine-hour drive from Delhi. A day’s orientation, preceding the trip is the norm at base camp near Shivpuri. The trip includes three to four hours of active rafting in a day. Accommodation is in tents pegged on beachfronts; the menu is buffet-style Indian and Continental, prepared from a kitchen tent. Contact Aquaterra Adventures, New Delhi, for more details. Tel: 91-11-6232641, 6292760; fax: 91-11-6232641; email: aquatera@vsnl.com; www.treknraft.com